Hamburg

In Hamburg I stayed at the Sofitel which has a lovely view over the Alster Canal and central Hamburg.

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I spent the two days I had here exploring on foot and I am so glad that I did because I found the greatest antique shops amidst historical landmarks! In fact near the photography museum and the large Hamburg Hot Air balloon is an Antique Center with around 20 different vendor stalls.

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One of my main focuses while here was spoons. One, because as a chef I love spoons! Two, because the Chef I previously worked for had the most amazing serving spoon that he got when he was in Hamburg and unfortunately doesn’t have it anymore. I was hoping to find a replicate for him in the piles and piles of silver and serving utensils they have but my search was to no avail. Anyway, if I lived in Hamburg I would be at this center once a week – there are some real treasures here!

After realizing I was starving and had spent more than one lost hour in antique stores I set out to find a yummy lunch and that I definitely succeeded in finding!

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This is the Hofbrauhaus restaurant where I was served a crispy pork knuckle with potato dumpling and sauerkraut. I discovered later that this is a chain restaurant in Germany, but it was delicious! Now, I realize that ‘pork knuckle’ might be a little off-putting, but think about it as a slow cooked pork butt with a bone inside because that’s exactly what it tasted like. And the yummy greasy crunch of the skin is absolutely perfect.

I continued by walk through Hamburg to the Maritime Museum, which is a must to check out! And then finished up seeing Parliament and a doing a little shopping in the streets next to the square.

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Cologne

Ok, I have to be honest here… Cologne is probably my least favorite city so far. I mean it was cool and I loved seeing the Cathedral and the love lock bridge. But the food I had was entirely missable and there were a lot of tourists! I am sure there are good restaurant here, I just didn’t have any luck in finding them. As I said though, there were definitely things I loved seeing, and there are pictures below to prove it!!

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Brussels

My first stop outside of France was Brussels! Why Brussels? Because I don’t know a single person who has been there who hasn’t had a great time! Plus, how could anyone dislike a city that is so well known and proud of their perfect Frites that they have websites dedicated to Frite maps of the city! http://www.fritmap.com/fr

Not to mention there is an App for iPhone and iPad:  https://itunes.apple.com/be/app/fritkots-bruxelles/id441054097?mt=8I

I think it’s pretty obvious that the first place I ate… the first thing I did was to research the BEST frites and go eat them!

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Maison Antoine is said to be the best so that is where I set off.

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You order frites and pick your sauce – in Brussels Mayo is the traditional condiment so that is what I went with… although given their sauce selection I really wanted to ask for 5 or 6 of them, next time though. The frite stand is located in the center of a square surrounded by bars. After purchasing a cone of frites you can walk to one of the bars and sit to have a beer and munch! The bars even have signs outside saying Frites accepted! The beer was great but the frites were extraordinary! Fries are usually potato-y or crispy…these were both. There is a 12 month frite school in Brussels that I thought was silly until I ate these fries, I now kind of want to go.  Oh! And one more thing about fries or frites… they aren’t French, at all. Don’t call them French fries in Brussels especially! In fact the reason they are called French Fries in American is because during World War I when American soldiers tasted these fries made by Belgium troops, they called them french fries because the official language of the Belgian army at the time was French. It is more correct to say Belgian fries, but frites or just plain fries is most common. I had read about this before ordering them, which to be honest made me nervous because you almost can’t stop your mouth from saying French Fries… but I managed.

One warning about the most delicious fries you’ve ever tasted – you will eat all of them! I think I left about 7 fries, and I have a rule to only eat half of things so I don’t blow up like a balloon during this trip! Of course that rule does get tossed to the side occasionally when something is exceptionally delicious. Plus I walk like 6 miles a 33day so that evens things out, right?

Anyway, there are so many museums in Brussels it was really difficult to narrow down what I wanted to see…

So I reached the palace and decided that seeing the outside was going to have to be sufficient for this trip.

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I walked on to find a surprise – The Museum of Musical Instruments! It is a beautiful building inside and out and so fun to explore; Walking through you feel as if you are inside a piano or stringed instrument of some sort.

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Afterwards I ducked into the Magritte museum to see these guys….

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(Picture courtesy of http://wdim.desplechin.com/imd100/studentWork/elizHawks/gallery.htm )

Then, I walked in the wrong direction, well not really wrong just different than the direction I thought I was headed. Serendipity is a beautiful thing because I ended up in the Chocolate district, and just in time for an afternoon snack!

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Best Hot Chocolate of my life! Actually, I have to qualify that statement. This was the best unique hot chocolate I have ever had, with extreme depth of flavor from star anise being nestled in with the cocoa. But the best traditional hot chocolate has to be Dinstuhl’s in Memphis! http://www.dinstuhls.com

Across from Fredric Blondeel is another great surprise.

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Taschen has it’s own store?!?!?!

For anyone who might not be familiar, Taschen is a publisher that is best known for publishing Helmut Newton, the rather risqué but altogether genius photographer. They publish lots of coffee table type books, and now they have the ultimate ‘book’ for a collector that I would just love to own.

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The Esther Scrolls, in scroll form with a companion English translation. Esther scrolls are the story of Queen Esther that is read on Purim. It is a beautiful story and is full of great illustrations as well. Taschen has reproduced the scroll with an English companion book.

Next I visited the Grand Place and the Brussels City Museum. This is truly a breathtaking part of the city! The buildings are carved and gilded; spinning around in the center of the square looking at each building makes it feel more like a movie set than a historical city center.

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IMG_2354I love the little alleyways off the Grand Place

If you ever decide to travel to Brussels the one place you absolutely must go, more than frites or chocolate, is the restaurant I had dinner: Comme Chez Soi

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This restaurant is truly perfect. The interior is cozy and inviting like being at a family member’s home for dinner. The food is absolutely perfect in execution, presentation and most importantly in taste. The service and staff as a whole is so welcoming and kind, I received a tour of the kitchen and the wine cellar and also had the opportunity to speak with the owner and chef. Most importantly I really enjoyed the pace and portion size of the tasting menu. Sometimes things can be off and you feel rushed, or slightly worse, you are left wondering if they forgot about you because it is taking so long. Size is very important in tasting menus because trying 6 or 7 different things is wonderful, but you want to be able to do so without feeling like you can’t eat for the next week. Anyhow, it was wonderful, and one of the things I was most impressed by was the owner, who had a desk in the kitchen near a window that looked out onto the dining room, and every guest the got up to leave, she personally thanked and said good night. I’ll leave you with the pictures of this most remarkable meal!

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Amuse one: Vegetable ‘tart’ and Smoked Salmon

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Amuse two: I honestly can’t remember enough to even guess – sorry!

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Rabbit Back, Kafir Lime Leaves, Dublin Bay Prawn, Vegetable Curry

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Breaded Scallops with Vegetable ‘Risotto’ (do you see the baby corn with the vegetables?)

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That’s right folks FRESH BABY CORN!! I’ve only been looking for this for about 3 or 4 years now!! Of course this came all the way from Thailand… And, yes I did ask about it and had them show it to me.

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Milk Fed Veal with Fried Sweetbreads

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Iberico de Bellota – this translates from Spanish as the best pork you will ever have in your life. This is a porcetta with black truffle.

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Blood Orange and Dark Chocolate – I usually don’t like other ingredients anywhere near my chocolate but this combination was more than ok with me!

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Interior of the dining room

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Wine Cellar

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Wine Cellar

Le Havre

I spent less than 24 hours in Le Havre – basically the way the TGV travels, in order to get from Bayeux to Brussels I needed to either go back to Bordeaux or go someplace new. So I went someplace new, plus my sister visited Le Havre in High School when her French class took a trip to France. My trip was mostly uneventful, I walked around, I saw things – AND I had the best carbonara I ever had in my life! As you will see in the last picture below, it was basically Cacio e Pepe (my fav pasta – parmesan and pepper) with bacon lardons and topped with two raw egg yolks! Delicious!

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Normandy

Being that I was a received a BA in History I was beyond excited to go to Bayeaux in Normandy and take the WWII DDay Tour. Bayeux was the first larger city to be liberated in France after four years of German Occupation. It is the best place to stay if you are interested in seeing the DDay sites. It is also a cute town with a beautiful Notre Dame-esque Cathedral and lots of shops and restaurants. Unfortunately, the restaurant I went to for my one meal while there, wasn’t very good – not bad, just not good, so I won’t be writing about that. Instead I will post all the pictures from my tour. It was an amazing trip and I just couldn’t believe that I was standing in and walking through History that I studied about in school.

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Pointe du Hoc DDay Monument

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Monument to the US Rangers

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Coast at Pointe du Hoc

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Cliffs the US Rangers climbed on DDay

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With my back facing the monument, the holes are from bombs and grenades, you can also see one of the German Bunkers in the distance

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German Bunker

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Inside the bunker, this was an area for beds

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Site of German Cannon

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German Machine Gunner Hole

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This hole was an ammunition bunker that Germans exploded with a grenade as Allied troops got closer. We know this by the fact that the concrete exploded up out of the bunker, if it had been an Allied bomb dropped down the hole would have been deeper.

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Bunker directly on the Pointe

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Rooms inside the bunker, I can’t appropriately express the feeling I had walking INSIDE of German bunkers. I suppose eerie is the best word I can come up with right now.

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Inside the bunker, machine gunner area

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This area is absolutely beautiful, all of Normandy is.

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French Cannon, Stolen by Germans, used on Allied forces.

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When Allied forces had a good hold of this area they built a landing strip for planes in a field by laying down wire mesh, after the War was over farmers in the area repurposed a lot of what was left behind. For example, the above fence used to be that landing strip.

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Omaha Beach

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Omaha Beach

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Monument to the US National Guard at Omaha Beach

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Time Capsule at the American Cemetery in Normandy to be opened June 6, 2044

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Sculpture honoring all those who died protecting the freedom of a country that wasn’t their own

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Reflection Pool American Cemetery, Normandy

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Chapel at the American Cemetery in Normandy.

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Chapel, American Cemetery, Normandy.

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Ceiling of the Chapel at the American Cemetery in Normandy

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American Cemetery, Normandy. In uncustomary fashion, graves were dug so that the buried would face West, towards home.

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Path to the water at the American Cemetery in Normandy

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The above and the following pictures are of the museum at the American Cemetery, Normandy

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The pretty little town of Bayeux

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This building is from the 14th century, levels above the ground floor were built protruding from the original structure because back then the French Government based taxes only on the ground floor square meters.

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Beautiful Notre Dame of Bayeux

Bordeaux

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The above picture was taken from the train about an hour outside of Bordeaux. The train ride into the city was so picturesque… passing all of the vineyards in the region. I stayed in the main shopping area in the city that is referred to as The Golden Triangle, my hotel was Hotel Continental and I personally think it is the perfect place to stay. It has an ideal location, helpful staff and is inexpensive. In terms of the rooms, they are bare bones but very clean. When I arrived it was 8pm so I walked a small circle around the hotel, grabbed a bite to eat and hit the hay!

I had read about a little restaurant called Cassoulette , and there wasn’t a bad review about it so I set out in that direction to start my day. To get there from my hotel I walked down Cours de l’Intendance in the Golden Triangle to Rue Saint Catherine, which is a pedestrian street lined with shops. On my way to Saint Catherine and completely on accident, I discovered the home of Francisco Goya, famed Spanish painter I studied in college. At the end of his life he lived in Bordeaux, where he died and there is a beautiful plaque outside the home.

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On the corner of Cours de l’Intendance and Saint Catherine I found the most wonderful chocolate shop, and being that it was Valentine’s Day I had to duck in.

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I think of Willy Wonka had a chocolate store it would be in Bordeaux… I discovered later in my day that these wonderful chocolate sculpture stores exist all over the city and are so affordable. Being that it was Valentine’s Day, I bought myself a Bee! (I have a slight bee obsession) And I have to report that the chocolate is delicious as well as adorable!!

I reached Cassoulette, it is on the Place de Victories and since it was warm enough to sit outside….

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….this was my view for lunch!

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I had Veal Blanquette, a dish I prepared numerous times at CIA and a handful of times at Table 3. I really enjoyed this version because the sauce was thinner and more acidic than what I am used to but very complimentary to the meat and vegetables. I also really like the idea of serving it with roasted potatoes as opposed to a potato puree. I think the addition of a roasted element adds a depth of flavor that I hadn’t previously thought of.

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For dessert I had a pear tart, a perfect pear tart. It was served (as you can see above) in more of a rustic style and topped with lines of chocolate sauce and dark chocolate curls.

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After lunch I began wandering and noticed these on the ground, therefore the Saint Andre Cathedral was nearby. I stopped into this amazing space and stayed for over an hour. The Cathedral was consecrated in 1096, however most of the current structure was built in the 14th and 15th centuries. It is on the French National Historic Register and was the site of Eleanor of Aquitaine and King Louis VII wedding in 1137.

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Being that it was Valentine’s Day I took myself to the Opera!! That night the opera was Dialogues des Carmelites. I loved it! It was such a special way to spend my last night in Bordeaux!

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I had never been to an opera before but I would imagine that this Opera House is not exactly on the shabby end, as you can see above.

In strolling about the next day I discovered Rue Michel-Montaigne, this street makes me want to move to Bordeaux! In the following pictures you will see that the all of the shops are little food markets: chocolate, cheese, bread, charcuterie, butcher. My favorite by far was Dubernet!! (Shop in French) A LA CANARD!!!! Not the entire shop was duck, they had some charcuterie and pates made from pork and/or Veal. They had WHOLE animals for sale, I would just be in heaven to be able to walk to a local store and buy whole primals, let alone animals.

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After a walk down the Rue Michel-Montaigne, I turned on the Alees de Tourny and found THE Bordeaux Chocolate Shop.

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As you can see from the tour group collected outside when I took this picture, Cadiot – Badie is the Mother of all the Bordeaux Chocolate shops. Opened in 1826, this wonderfully creative chocolatier has truffles, pastries, and chocolate sculptures – just walking into the store is amazing as it smells of rich dark chocolate. I suggest at least trying the Bordeaux truffle while you are there!

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Marseille

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I was so excited to arrive in Marseille!! My Great Great Grandmother was from Marseille and I was just beside myself! As soon as I got in town I dumped my bags in my room and started walking. I knew I wanted to spend a full day exploring the old town of Marseille, which is what would have existed when my grandmother was living there, so I began my half day of the new area. Marseille is a very large city directly on the Mediterranean Sea, it is the second largest city in land and the thrid largest in population. It is France’s largest commercial port and is known as the capital of the Provence region, and has another – possibly larger – claim to fame: Chateau d’If. Chateau d’If is the fortress a mile off the Marseille shore that was made famous as a prison mentioned in Alexandre Dumas’ Count of Monte Cristo. You can see this island from most anywhere on the Marseille shoreline.

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Because of all the boats in the harbor it is difficult to get a good picture of Chateau d’If, but behind the elephant you can see some white lights… that’s it!

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Marseille Opera House

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The above two pictures are of the Notre Dame de la Garde. It is a beautiful cathedral that overlooks Marseille and is open to the public, you can get there either by taking a little tram up the hill or by taking one of the tour trains (these ‘trains’ more resemble a string of golf carts)

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The beginning of the Vieux Port or Old Town of Marseille.

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This is the main thoroughfare in the Vieux Port – I couldn’t stop ducking down side streets and crossing every square thinking that this could have been where my grandmother would walk.

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My lunch at Chex Madie on the port was excellent! I had a zucchini and artichoke soufflé that I am completely at a loss as to how they managed to have so many vegetables in side yet still have a beautifully risen and exceptionally light soufflé. The owner is wonderful and greeted all of the tables, her son was there that day and after she spoke to me and discovered I was American she sent him over to me to say hello because he is learning English. He and I had a great little conversation, but I think he taught me more French than I helped his English at all!

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Dinner was at Miramar, also located on the harbor in the Vieux Port. Above is the amazing Black Truffle toast sent out as an amuse bouche. This thin wafer was topped with black truffle, truffle shavings and extra virgin olive oil – sublime!!

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Lobster Cannelloni, if you remember I had a similar item at Joel Robuchon in Monte Carlo. There were some very large differences however, this had a substantial sauce from lobster demi that possibly looks heavy but was acidic enough to be balanced. Also in this representation the pasta was almost nonexistent, at Robuchon the pasta was thin yet still a significant element.

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Loup du Bar. LOUP DU BAR. The most perfect, light, flavorful, wonderful fish in the world… in my opinion anyhow. And ok maybe there are other fish I love equally or even more but you never see Loup du Bar anywhere so I never get to have it. It is also called Loup de Mer, which is how I am most familiar with it, but Mirimar refers to it as Loup du Bar on their menu. It is most plainly mediterranean sea bass. It has, as you can see above, the best skin because it crisps so well! If you have had Redfish (another of my favorites) seared on it’s skin then that is comparable (the skin not the flesh), but Loup du Bar’s skin is much thinner. And do you see how they have crisped a fin and placed it in a puddle of caviar on top of the fish? Genius! I could probably write another two paragraphs or more on this fish, but I’ve probably used the words skin and flesh more than the average reader wants to hear – haha! It was served with caviar risotto and a rich butter and lemon sauce that had me wanting to lick my plate.

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Before I move on to dessert, I have to show you this picture of the Bouillabaisse. So, I was a little disappointed that I wasn’t able to order bouillabaisse as it is for two or more people. And in France they just say no, there is no discussion… I love that about the French! Well this is a picture of TWO people carrying the tray of bouillabaisse for four people. When I saw this I understood, and besides my meal was awesome!

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I don’t even know where to begin with this dessert… OK, so chocolate mouse, chocolate souffle cake, vanilla ice cream, creme brûlée milkshake (for lack of a better term). Just for the record, when I ordered this, all the menu said was chocolate souffle cake, no mention of accompaniments. But, it was all delicious and who doesn’t like being surprised by extra dessert?!!?

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